tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-56972090115911865992024-03-18T21:36:08.792-07:00Firewise Western AustraliaA blog about living more safely in the fire-prone regions of the South West by reducing risk from wildfire in the areas around the house through careful plant selection, maintenance, use of moisture and spacing.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11178525809903400265noreply@blogger.comBlogger11125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5697209011591186599.post-2957953108728055552015-06-05T19:02:00.000-07:002015-06-05T19:05:02.358-07:00<h2>
Ensuring homeowners are more self-reliant</h2>
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One of the major problems as I see it with respect to bushfires and the impact that they may have on homes at the Rural Urban Interface is that, many properties are more at risk of bushfire attack than they need be.</div>
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A few simple actions taken by residents that include making their house more ember proof and removing vegetation from the immediate surrounds of their house and sheds can make them a whole lot safer.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_A3s-mnT1To72ID39txiVnz_WWGuS3wtZfoMpskwIAwS9mOZIZ9FA1zi-A8LLi2AnCTcPd_oxFgVhZr3QDz3q9QQ2yqUJgwCNeZ62LNg8I7j0e-2_ZnscS4ewDzEHy-dFEH-DAq1d0Og/s1600/Vegetation_removal_2660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_A3s-mnT1To72ID39txiVnz_WWGuS3wtZfoMpskwIAwS9mOZIZ9FA1zi-A8LLi2AnCTcPd_oxFgVhZr3QDz3q9QQ2yqUJgwCNeZ62LNg8I7j0e-2_ZnscS4ewDzEHy-dFEH-DAq1d0Og/s400/Vegetation_removal_2660.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dry grass and prunings from shrubs grown too large are taken to the local<br />
waste station to be burnt under controlled conditions. We can't burn<br />
at home during fire season which includes March when this picture<br />
was taken.</td></tr>
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Many shrubs can grow to be a large bush in just a few years, so every year or so it is best to do an audit of the surrounds of the home and reduce the size of some of them or if they have foliage with volatile oils, consider removing them altogether.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTdj-9U7eo4KREYXJK71mo4HTPcWdNAji9dyqX2shF-eyvXHnXskU1zxAVf3KLwzRfRlDNgib8NlqUae3zbc6dpKJKkxKORnUXVSmLF7h4aRV7NTjNs5arth5TX6vN08qHAvkMHlAEnXA/s1600/Cotoneaster_2449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTdj-9U7eo4KREYXJK71mo4HTPcWdNAji9dyqX2shF-eyvXHnXskU1zxAVf3KLwzRfRlDNgib8NlqUae3zbc6dpKJKkxKORnUXVSmLF7h4aRV7NTjNs5arth5TX6vN08qHAvkMHlAEnXA/s400/Cotoneaster_2449.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Centre, a large vigorous Cotoneaster. Very robust it was pruned by a third,<br />
two years ago and has regrown to be as big as before.</td></tr>
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In the picture, left, a large Cotoneaster is growing well, too well for where it is, which is within about 10 metres of the Cottage that we have at the front of the property. We could continue to prune it every couple of years to keep it lower, but I am seriously considering taking it out altogether and replacing with a smaller growing, less vigorous shrub that will be easier to maintain, still provide some screening and be less of a fire risk.</div>
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The above are examples of what a homeowner in a Rural Interface Zone, as we are, needs to be doing to make themselves less at risk from bushfire attack. We have a very small local bushfire brigade so in any bushfire we are likely to be on our own.</div>
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This predicament faces many residents in the RUI areas of the Perth metropolitan area and the South West of Western Australia. The number of households in the RUI in southern WA would run into hundreds of thousands. Many properties are not at all arranged to be at a low risk of bushfire attack.</div>
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How can people in this areas be encouraged and brought on board to be more self-reliant, educate themselves and be more self-reliant with respect to bushfire risk.</div>
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I wrote recently in a comment to a blog "Wildfire in the West" http://wildfireinthewest.blogspot.com.au/2015/05/reduce-wildfire-risks-or-well-continue.html</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; text-align: justify;">"Somehow we need to encourage homeowners at the WUI to be more self-reliant and keen to ensure their properties are at low risk of wildfire attack. Perhaps we need to use the tools of marketing and advertising - put less emphasis on fear campaigns, "Do this or you'll get burnt out" - and more on positive outcomes. "Do this and you'll have a relaxing fire season because your property looks great and uncluttered, like a park." Another example, "Take out those two conifers near the house and you'll get more sun in winter, no more needles on the roof and an easy-care garden (and a lower fire risk)."</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">We need to stress the positive and use the tools of educators and marketing professionals to bring about behavioural change with respect to managing bushfire/wildfire risk. It would be the most cost-effective way to go.</span></span></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11178525809903400265noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5697209011591186599.post-72939351640897324862015-05-06T19:15:00.001-07:002015-05-06T19:19:53.057-07:00<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Fire season blues</span></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDepN8lHLboU2IgpvfkcjzdiOk9JdRVyv6iKTUbj-geqze_WZhfkqTJNu8kLQeo23rFYPf_bPcmfX-gJ6lASCsCAiNb8IkyjkeeqyRe-83_SuRvg_lvPJBD_I7PtgnZgNz1tg5hrPIsE0/s1600/IMG_2473.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Fire pump" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDepN8lHLboU2IgpvfkcjzdiOk9JdRVyv6iKTUbj-geqze_WZhfkqTJNu8kLQeo23rFYPf_bPcmfX-gJ6lASCsCAiNb8IkyjkeeqyRe-83_SuRvg_lvPJBD_I7PtgnZgNz1tg5hrPIsE0/s1600/IMG_2473.jpg" height="320" title="Testing the fire pump." width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Testing the fire pump to see if it starts easily and runs properly.<br />
Also helped to spread some moisture around near the house.</td></tr>
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A hot wind from the east blew all day, drying the soil and plants even more from last week.<br />
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(I started this blog in January and have now come back to it in early May. Oh well, better late than ever. A great deal has happened since then.)<br />
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This was taken earlier this year in late January when the conditions were very dry. Typically January and February are the driest months and the chance of bushfires starting and spreading rapidly is greatest.<br />
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In fact as it turned out the first three months of 2015 was one of the busiest for emergency authorities, with the Northcliffe and Boddington fires being extremely large and destructive.<br />
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A substantial wooden bridge was destroyed in the Boddington bushfire - sometimes called the Hotham bushfire.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWcLuXM-v1wsOgagLEuzdQcxVK3zaeAP4Zycnqq7N-SZgeG4BgrATA6X4o-9Vv0X6Yb-SsMu7RnKjEkBuMLcJX7ZJLMRm837Ue_dr-T9s1_W8N8pVkuhR_OYMdUOd8CN2HwvmaSnoZ54/s1600/B9TquQVCAAEmtdO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWcLuXM-v1wsOgagLEuzdQcxVK3zaeAP4Zycnqq7N-SZgeG4BgrATA6X4o-9Vv0X6Yb-SsMu7RnKjEkBuMLcJX7ZJLMRm837Ue_dr-T9s1_W8N8pVkuhR_OYMdUOd8CN2HwvmaSnoZ54/s1600/B9TquQVCAAEmtdO.jpg" height="196" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Long Gully Bridge - an example of a wooden trestle bridge</td></tr>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11178525809903400265noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5697209011591186599.post-10172140189297598572014-11-07T00:45:00.001-08:002014-11-07T00:48:22.576-08:00"Gardens of Fire" Project<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirt1rv_a4pYmDvcnSHPgmdYW2lmEPB5HZH9LeuCKw1_uHePnsR2CPNMa5OFjK0jKKsrm8rO7ZYDKaV0LkfLcwrgPNdfXp8OsxYkOBflMVEaJ-LtHeC6BCXhjlJna1paBdv2auqK-jXzKU/s1600/Cover_GardensFire.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirt1rv_a4pYmDvcnSHPgmdYW2lmEPB5HZH9LeuCKw1_uHePnsR2CPNMa5OFjK0jKKsrm8rO7ZYDKaV0LkfLcwrgPNdfXp8OsxYkOBflMVEaJ-LtHeC6BCXhjlJna1paBdv2auqK-jXzKU/s1600/Cover_GardensFire.jpeg" height="400" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cover of Robert Kenny's book</td></tr>
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Several months ago I read the book, "Gardens of Fire" by Robert Kenny who lived through and survived the Victorian bushfires of 2009. Unfortunately, his house, though he tried to save it, was burnt to the ground. Robert is an academic and historian who wrote a memoir of this event and its aftermath.<br />
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A good read, although rather unsettling, it provides very good reasons why it is a terrible thing for anyone to have their house destroyed. It forms a powerful motivating tool to encourage all those of us who live or holiday in fire-prone areas of Australia - and other countries with similar wildfire problems - to do everything we can to reduce the risk of bushfire attack on our homes and communities.<br />
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I am finding that the more I learn, the more there is to learn. This book is a good start.<br />
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The book is published by UWA Press and is available from them. <a href="http://uwap.uwa.edu.au/products/" target="_blank">uwap.uwa.edu.au/products/</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQmP9z9OxdstQ3QY2AJWIm0XXRvhcnsmxmh8p0BuZO6sIQsobuIGs1Bi2nZtBma1b1qEqQNvo7xG8oXKa4ZjxMQjaPWTvs0TNJPYrYCYYYNYjxlwzkAenTpJCHNvLkFCAnecdkJUPjYa8/s1600/Gardens0fFire_series_fromp_Page_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQmP9z9OxdstQ3QY2AJWIm0XXRvhcnsmxmh8p0BuZO6sIQsobuIGs1Bi2nZtBma1b1qEqQNvo7xG8oXKa4ZjxMQjaPWTvs0TNJPYrYCYYYNYjxlwzkAenTpJCHNvLkFCAnecdkJUPjYa8/s1600/Gardens0fFire_series_fromp_Page_1.jpg" height="640" width="451" /></a></div>
From the reading of the book came the project to build Bushfire Awareness which was supported by the Rotary Club of Bridgetown in South West, Western Australia.<br />
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A display was created which steps through the main points of living more safely in bushfire areas, often known as the Rural Urban Interface or RUI.<br />
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The book has now been distributed to 16 libraries in the Perth Hills and South West. The display was set up in Bridgetown, Balingup, Donnybrook, Bunbury and Manjimup Libraries.<br />
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A copy of the display is now at Blackwood Rural Services in Bridgetown.<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11178525809903400265noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5697209011591186599.post-39046141645303217872014-08-16T08:19:00.001-07:002014-08-16T08:19:50.443-07:00<h2>
Insurance considerations</h2>
Most of us would be aware of insuring our properties for their full value especially if we live in fire-prone areas when the risk of bushfire is quite high for around six months of the year.<br />
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I had recently read the book by Linda Masterson, "Surviving Wildfire", which was full of useful tips about what to do and how to go about it when living in a known wildfire area.<br />
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<a href="http://www.Surviving Wildfire.com" target="_blank">www.Surviving Wildfire.com</a> Follow the link to learn more about this book. In it Linda describes how they had prepared somewhat for the occurrence of a wildfire but not enough for when they were actually hit by a wildfire. Their house and most of their possessions were destroyed. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An older style house with a traditional garden,<br />but with some forest trees on a hillside<br />about 75 m away.</td></tr>
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One point that Linda made was to look at the excess that you elect to pay should there be a claim. Generally the higher the excess the lower the premium. It is reasoned that small, fiddly claims will not be paid if the excess is, say, $1000 or more. If one has no excess then there is far more cost for the insurance company because there is still the paperwork in the claim process even if the payout is quite small.<br />
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From the client's point of view it is worth insuring for full value in case of serious damage when although the chance of having one's house destroyed completely is not that high, the consequences and the financial loss is huge. Thus it is best to be insured for the big catastrophe, and not worry about insuring for small claims. <br />
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My house and contents insurance comes up for renewal next month. The premium was just over $1900. I checked and found I had no excess apart from $300 for tsunamis which considering that I live some 70 km inland from the sea is not all that likely. I nominated my excess to be $1000. Thus any small loss or damage I would pay all or most of it myself.<br />
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I was amazed to find my premium would drop by over $700. Thus I am saving nearly 40% on my insurance premium with only a small decrease in my insurance cover and only at the fairly inconsequential part of the insurance cover.<br />
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It basically means that I can more easily afford to pay the premium to cover the full value of my house and possessions, rather than be fully covered at the low cost end.<br />
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A revised premium quote is being sent to me now and it will be much less to pay. I wished I had enquired sooner. And thank you Linda Masterson for that tip.<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11178525809903400265noreply@blogger.com0Balingup, Western Australia, Australia-34.307143856288029 117.421875-48.345937856288032 96.767578 -20.26834985628803 138.07617199999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5697209011591186599.post-11207898938476744852013-05-13T21:29:00.000-07:002013-05-13T21:29:03.557-07:00<h2>
<b>From small seedlings big trees grow </b></h2>
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<i>And may need to come out ... at great expense!</i></h3>
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Blackwood Wattles, Acacia melanoxylon, are a case in point. I once thought them attractive, a good example of a tall wattle, with dark green "leafy" foliage, actually flattened stems that look like a true leaf, that comes originally from parts of Victoria and Tasmania. They do well in our South West particularly in moister gullies and on south facing slopes.</div>
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Blackwood wattle on right of the photo, quite a tall </div>
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tree with, even then, signs of one of its undesirable</div>
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characteristics, namely, suckering.</div>
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Possibly about 25 years ago, a number were planted by previous owners as innocent-enough-looking seedlings. It was the age of Permaculture, self-sufficiency and recycling. These trees were put in as a tree crop with the hope that down the track they would provide timber for furniture or, at the very least, firewood. </div>
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My first impressions of them were that they were desirable trees that were recommended by farming friends. I was pleased to find them on my 1.9 Ha in Balingup that I bought in early 2006.</div>
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A few years later, in July 2008, I began to have reservations about them when during a winter storm, the tree, pictured left and below, came down rather spectacularly and as a total surprise, because I had had the impression that they were more long lasting than most wattles.</div>
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This Blackwo<span style="font-size: x-small;">od wattle litera</span>lly collapsed and spreadeagled</div>
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itself across some 30 metres during a storm, just missing </div>
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the big shed shown to the right of the picture.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhINZvkUOV4Rs5L3PjdJfNcmRi3xQ5VvU2Zuq0xrc3SuX2gG-F1WAoksks0yQBHPcty6fNLGU871uZXqIQejZTa5wlNMgqppslzpW-CgQktZ3QHXk7KtwtcTG_Hig6-sM-Tu6x322lXaQk/s1600/Montaza_Bckwd_wattle_shed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhINZvkUOV4Rs5L3PjdJfNcmRi3xQ5VvU2Zuq0xrc3SuX2gG-F1WAoksks0yQBHPcty6fNLGU871uZXqIQejZTa5wlNMgqppslzpW-CgQktZ3QHXk7KtwtcTG_Hig6-sM-Tu6x322lXaQk/s320/Montaza_Bckwd_wattle_shed.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: right;">The Blackwood wattle just missed the Big Shed.</td></tr>
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<div>
It, of course, happened at the start of a weekend and we needed access to our sheds and the driveway, so we had to engage expert help to remove the remains of the tree. It cost us around $1000 to clean up.</div>
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It was sawn up and the smaller material mulched, the we cut some fire wood, took loads to the tip and burnt some logs. Some was not usable because it had rotted at the base and hosted many borers that had been having a good time for many years.</div>
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When I realized that Blackwood wattles were also likely to be quite inflammable over summer with their incessant dropping of litter, small twigs, seed pods, larger branches and indeed the whole tree, I reviewed my opinion of this type of tree. In addition to suckering they also grow prolifically from their many seeds. I decided to remove them over time rather than try to prune them as this was quite expensive anyway and the tree would still keep growing.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqp30yepFuPwwKTaYOpO8ng4thnODHbT3iknKznNXlc_Cv7MQiplT9X-u6kCW1Mi9uTimnHXPyg0BSgx6lNI8Qod9ZC2bejQEJYcGLX55NcicsV3g5BLRwqn6Q64TNykjpaIilwnbboAk/s1600/Blackwood_Wattle+removal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqp30yepFuPwwKTaYOpO8ng4thnODHbT3iknKznNXlc_Cv7MQiplT9X-u6kCW1Mi9uTimnHXPyg0BSgx6lNI8Qod9ZC2bejQEJYcGLX55NcicsV3g5BLRwqn6Q64TNykjpaIilwnbboAk/s320/Blackwood_Wattle+removal.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: right;">
Removed in February 2013, these</div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
Blackwood Wattles are no </div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
longer a problem.</div>
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</tbody></table>
<div>
We had another storm in June 2012 and one large Blackwood Wattle leant over onto another one. That was it! The rest of them, about half a dozen which were casting a dense shade, a problem especially in winter, were removed at considerable expense, but now they are no longer a problem. Importantly they do not pose a fire hazard any more.</div>
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<div>
During the <a href="http://www.countrygardens-australia.com/" target="_blank">Festival of Country Gardens</a> on the Arboretum Amble in early May, the owners of the property with this wonderful assortment of trees told how they had decided to remove a row of Blackwood Wattles because of their undesirable traits. I agreed wholeheartedly with their sensible decision.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj-cOi3iIznkStwBeSG93atnpjVKnyYpjglOyNrdENPaYiW_cWZ0MR8VJK_u5iB3eWVOONAQ0yaojgizmC_u3guavk6Jm1WmtnZcJq0qmJy9dKAVrv20irtQq81msw2evh3bcqDQw8-ec/s1600/Blackwood_wattle_borers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj-cOi3iIznkStwBeSG93atnpjVKnyYpjglOyNrdENPaYiW_cWZ0MR8VJK_u5iB3eWVOONAQ0yaojgizmC_u3guavk6Jm1WmtnZcJq0qmJy9dKAVrv20irtQq81msw2evh3bcqDQw8-ec/s320/Blackwood_wattle_borers.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Borer signs in felled Blackwood Wattle.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir-WomVhFhBv403vFpQOP3iNH6lF3V30bzAcIm_JXqJBDqyFteGwsG7iw6SDmT1gKH4aJ1ImsSk2yKF3bjNgntnx6NzUKXSvo-EC4EbSizCDPJtuIqjEBBOhrm24JjBsIZdld8VvxHDDk/s1600/Blackwoodwattle_base.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir-WomVhFhBv403vFpQOP3iNH6lF3V30bzAcIm_JXqJBDqyFteGwsG7iw6SDmT1gKH4aJ1ImsSk2yKF3bjNgntnx6NzUKXSvo-EC4EbSizCDPJtuIqjEBBOhrm24JjBsIZdld8VvxHDDk/s320/Blackwoodwattle_base.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: right;">
This Blackwood Wattle had rotted out at the base and was</div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
leaning into another after the 10 June 2012 storm. Note </div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
the regrowth, they have ways of surviving.</div>
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</tbody></table>
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<div>
And the moral of this story is: </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Don't plant Blackwood Wattles in gardens in the first place. </span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11178525809903400265noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5697209011591186599.post-47851121361189605632012-12-24T02:38:00.003-08:002012-12-24T02:38:35.658-08:00Small is beautiful - when it comes to shrubsPlants grow! This may not come as a complete surprise, but many of us, myself included often think that the shrub or tree that we plant will take ages to reach a satisfactory size. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzle4X8P_9JQ7i2HbXLkMk76vXv_k2maY7Q1BpUeEiJwfEmJmQreMPxKqFIHd70ZlUcQoIREnv8-YTwZG-WHyoaIcuZakdQThTWJShszUuPL2eB0ISPqpGl_XRa4OnQZL5_1iuJ-8yhhg/s1600/Ceanothus_shed_0197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzle4X8P_9JQ7i2HbXLkMk76vXv_k2maY7Q1BpUeEiJwfEmJmQreMPxKqFIHd70ZlUcQoIREnv8-YTwZG-WHyoaIcuZakdQThTWJShszUuPL2eB0ISPqpGl_XRa4OnQZL5_1iuJ-8yhhg/s320/Ceanothus_shed_0197.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These Ceanothus, Californian Lilac were<br />less than a metre high a year before and<br />have taken off. Not a good position next<br />to a shed with timber walls.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Not so! If given a modicum of care, regular watering - not necessarily a huge amount but done at around twice a week and preferably via a drip system, plants will grow noticeably bigger. Drippers deliver water at ground level, not into the air where much evaporates, so most of the water delivered by drippers will percolate down to the roots. <br />
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In addition to aid the growth this year, we have had the season on our side with not so much rain over winter, but good late rains in September, which with the added warmth and daylight hours of the equinox period, meant that plants really took off. Modest little shrubs became two metre high shrubs and began to reach rooflines and come close to tree canopies. Somehow the process of raining is more effective than drippers, probably because whole areas of the garden are watered and not just the spots where the drippers reach.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxkoN7WI4qBXWLNFTd9d0RHJlRKsecLKSyxaQihtnHGHiEW6Zr7yIUm6A4oU7pOIBtiiJhk6-_5blZgNI68TlAjzdb-eaRErSF83a_q4HqV6DseWvhGndH1FqvOIwKGD3NpWvqjIO64Vc/s1600/Ceanothus_side_shed3957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxkoN7WI4qBXWLNFTd9d0RHJlRKsecLKSyxaQihtnHGHiEW6Zr7yIUm6A4oU7pOIBtiiJhk6-_5blZgNI68TlAjzdb-eaRErSF83a_q4HqV6DseWvhGndH1FqvOIwKGD3NpWvqjIO64Vc/s320/Ceanothus_side_shed3957.jpg" width="212" /></a><br />
<br />
The Ceanothus shrubs as shown above and right are growing next to a shed with wooden sides. The Ceanothus is a short-lived Californian native that grows fast, and dies within 15 - 20 years by which time it has many twiggy, dead branches and will burn easily. It is designed to burn as a way of renewing and allowing young seedlings space and nutrients to grow.<br />
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If grown near trees it can create a ladder effect whereby a grass fire or flying embers from a bushfire can set the Ceanothus on fire and in turn the flames can reach up into nearby trees where the fire can really take off.<br />
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These shrubs could be pruned low, although they don't respond to pruning very well, or taken out altogether. Watch this spot, these shrubs will be removed!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11178525809903400265noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5697209011591186599.post-85487525015746245472012-08-06T08:43:00.002-07:002012-08-06T08:43:52.696-07:00Shrubs: the Good, the Bad, the Ugly<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCfOV9gwuUEp-FnTZ1ExrngvrqbkiIm-hlcYd_s6LJ967OZYcZWIL8V0gTvGAlvhyXT_XbI9vtyoqwxlVqTQZ7MEWw7-OKQIIMoLlrsnU-Mp38cXmbqDK8f-fvMOfOdp2ZfGc0O2h1Yww/s1600/Flowering_apricot_1801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCfOV9gwuUEp-FnTZ1ExrngvrqbkiIm-hlcYd_s6LJ967OZYcZWIL8V0gTvGAlvhyXT_XbI9vtyoqwxlVqTQZ7MEWw7-OKQIIMoLlrsnU-Mp38cXmbqDK8f-fvMOfOdp2ZfGc0O2h1Yww/s320/Flowering_apricot_1801.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">The flowering apricot is more of a small </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">tree, but it </span></div>
<div style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">perfectly exemplifies the </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">attractive bare branches of winter,</span></div>
<div style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">though </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">here it shows its typical early blossom </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">amongst the bare stems. GOOD</span></div>
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With winter well and truly here, the nature of the deciduous shrub becomes obvious - it loses its leaves and reveals the scaffolding of its branches. For many species the winter pattern of its branches is a beautiful sight, for although it offers no solid screening as it does in summer, it nonetheless creates a gentle softening of a vista with the tracery of those bare branches.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9QNgR7s3qtezOWyWfWZfs26xeHkiawwfXwPkHVXQ9TC6bo4oHDRgGCmVx3sQKf4eRbwGcYYBWSAnmHrMfDRH9Dn9bop0GXMDKjfrOBrnP_TvQkDQoxUtV9YwXfq8PKZ5HS0sjP2mnAbo/s1600/Hydrangea_branches_3942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9QNgR7s3qtezOWyWfWZfs26xeHkiawwfXwPkHVXQ9TC6bo4oHDRgGCmVx3sQKf4eRbwGcYYBWSAnmHrMfDRH9Dn9bop0GXMDKjfrOBrnP_TvQkDQoxUtV9YwXfq8PKZ5HS0sjP2mnAbo/s320/Hydrangea_branches_3942.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Hydrangea has very few dead leaves<br />caught in its branches. Its leaves break<br />down quickly once they have fallen.<br />GOOD</td></tr>
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Deciduous shrubs do more than reveal their branches, they also show that they have very little build up of flammable material. The freshly growing leaves are, more often than not, low in volatile oils, contain a high proportion of moisture and come from climates which have cold winters and mild summers. They are not designed to burn unlike shrubs adapted to water saving such as those from a mediterranean climate. The dead leaves of the deciduous shrub tend to fall to the ground and, in most cases, will quickly decay over the winter becoming composted and eventually part of the soil. Thus by summer they pose no hidden fire threat either from the new moist leaves or the old ones becoming part of the top soil.<br />
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By contrast an evergreen shrub may build up much dead litter caught in the branches, that cannot readily be seen, because of masking by the evergreen leaves.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjahQwhkfk1VOnQzQlALSgHLBfHTTURKNAXV9BtfP8fxX6FzxmPPK7InqeZU0C7ERqlVLtR1Yr6yOfupqzzd9_zKgDkY8PlcXWrCW7SV5W7qFb-QGA7r6iAB9K07sfPSR5YPdWSOdFgB0M/s1600/Bookleaf_cypress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjahQwhkfk1VOnQzQlALSgHLBfHTTURKNAXV9BtfP8fxX6FzxmPPK7InqeZU0C7ERqlVLtR1Yr6yOfupqzzd9_zKgDkY8PlcXWrCW7SV5W7qFb-QGA7r6iAB9K07sfPSR5YPdWSOdFgB0M/s320/Bookleaf_cypress.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Book Leaf Cypress looks green on the outside, but part<br />the leaves and there is dry and inflammable litter inside.<br />BAD and UGLY</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBEJqwj7FUQgvognVPBcj8-0fOnS83ZxFyk-YB7mXNxDszkOQNP6z4g9YDATvbhwnE2zZr4n9jZosSktR_P9sv9CcwJx8crdq-E-FA-qRp4DT1HYsLecKWDxif0pP2o2t_z3QN355Caxo/s1600/Euonymous_3976.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBEJqwj7FUQgvognVPBcj8-0fOnS83ZxFyk-YB7mXNxDszkOQNP6z4g9YDATvbhwnE2zZr4n9jZosSktR_P9sv9CcwJx8crdq-E-FA-qRp4DT1HYsLecKWDxif0pP2o2t_z3QN355Caxo/s320/Euonymous_3976.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Euonymous japonica<br />GOOD</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Of course, there is great variation and a spindle berry, Euonymous japonica, is quite low in flammability, although an evergreen. Its leaves are quite large, fleshy and moist without volatile oils. When looking into the shrub there is very little in the way of leaf litter caught in the branches.<br />
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To sum up, choosing deciduous shrubs are often a safer choice for fire-prone areas, partly because they come from cool temperate areas and are not inherently inflammable, but also because it is easy to see if there is a build up of inflammable material.<br />
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If you do choose evergreen shrubs, choose ones like the Euonymous with broad, fleshy leaves.<br />
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If you really like plants such as diosma or artemisia keep them small and low to the ground - less than a metre - this regular cutting back will reduce the litter build up.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXNjKL4038B0kig8wnKUi4sSyMj55c4WmXA5t0uQQy7uJf0FVAC56x54PsNKMBZxnS_gmvnsp2APXTJX1UK7MqNQ_gxHrK30YqpE1Yf5uBl8OHVaG1rXoAhzwsNfGm5YsYvk02vgqvyuI/s1600/Artemisia_3935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXNjKL4038B0kig8wnKUi4sSyMj55c4WmXA5t0uQQy7uJf0FVAC56x54PsNKMBZxnS_gmvnsp2APXTJX1UK7MqNQ_gxHrK30YqpE1Yf5uBl8OHVaG1rXoAhzwsNfGm5YsYvk02vgqvyuI/s320/Artemisia_3935.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Artemisia, Wormwood, is best cut back regularly, but it does<br />have volatile oils and needs controlling.<br />A qualified GOOD. High maintenance!</td></tr>
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</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11178525809903400265noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5697209011591186599.post-39312156928137387532012-04-07T19:42:00.002-07:002012-04-07T19:42:35.825-07:00Season is changing at lastWe can now begin to relax as the threat of wildfire diminishes with the cooler temperatures and the few showers that we have had over the past few days. Here in Balingup, South West, Australia we have even had a couple of mild frosts in the more open parts of the property.<br />
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Nonetheless, because it is more pleasant working in the garden and around the house, it is a good time to continue to make the property more firewise and defensible in the case of a bushfire.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVXQO2PMXOvScz9FS6OMQ2XNAimqUQr5SXu8wOZftJ9ji1WbhRo4BUMr2q6AXrgLB8cH5VVPKI7Cwwlw6WhfeeLllVW-twMdBfyBhC9wGZtfvtGszrPMAv1QdrtKp6gpKIuBta1JwndI/s1600/IMG_0698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVXQO2PMXOvScz9FS6OMQ2XNAimqUQr5SXu8wOZftJ9ji1WbhRo4BUMr2q6AXrgLB8cH5VVPKI7Cwwlw6WhfeeLllVW-twMdBfyBhC9wGZtfvtGszrPMAv1QdrtKp6gpKIuBta1JwndI/s400/IMG_0698.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
A garden in Bridgetown, in South West, WA, is landscaped to minimise</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
the risk of bushfire. Note the stretch of green, moist lawn, the wide gravel</div>
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path and the selection of plants that are low in flammability. </div>
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These include: roses, agapanthus and several varieties of deciduous trees, </div>
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such as a liquidamber on the left and a Chinese Tallow tree, centre.</div>
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An excellent web site has been created in Napa Valley, Southern California, which has a similar mediterranean climate to ours, i.e., long, hot, dry summers with cool, moist winters.<br />
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The website is part of the Firewise Communities network which spans many parts of the fire-prone areas of the US. <br />
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Here is a link - <a href="http://www.napafirewise.org/index.html" target="_blank">Napa_Firewise</a> - to a whole section on Defensible Space - that important area immediately around the home which we sometimes call the Building Protection Zone, BPZ, or the Circle of Safety. <br />
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It usually measures 20 m or more from the external walls of a house depending on terrain and whether near tall forest areas which can be highly fire-prone or to more open country which may present less of a risk. This defensible space is aimed to provide an area for easy access to the dwelling for fire fighters and to have little or no material in this space that is likely to catch fire or dry out and become inflammable.<br />
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The choice of plants near a dwelling can have an impact on to how vulnerable a property is to a bushfire. For example, green, moisture laden grass in the form of a lawn is unlikely to support a fire, whereas a hedge of 2 metre-high evergreen shrubs containing dead leaves and twigs may help fuel a fire, especially if the leaves contain volatile oils. A hedge of rosemary or of melaleucas near a house is to be avoided. <br />
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For more information about this the Australian Victorian Country Fire Authority has created an online <a href="http://www.cfa.vic.gov.au/firesafety/bushfire/prepare-your-property/plant-selection-key/index.htm" target="_blank">Plant Selection Key</a> which I have found extremely useful and illuminating. <br />
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It will help you redesign your garden to be more firewire.<br />
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11178525809903400265noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5697209011591186599.post-78654402728917710072012-03-23T08:36:00.003-07:002012-03-23T08:36:39.749-07:00They have to go. The gum trees that is!Some years back I had a lovely old property in Bridgetown that had a jarrah-weatherboard house, beautiful old camellias and a magnificent Lemon-scented Gum, <i>Coyrymbia citriodora</i>.<br />
The tree had many seedlings and was a favourite feeding tree for the red-tailed Black Cockatoo.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibrbB5ImBYC30RlJAJkROG1x8ouLmW1hsZaX0B3OWrSjobheMyj3ldLvUwzJQxEXtpjQts8NBpleP2Hgi3-VE5Nm6OTK4jBIdUf4gOVSWd7X4TlHsI-chXOfrHEBR9ExHlTqApoK0zUtw/s1600/lsg_col036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibrbB5ImBYC30RlJAJkROG1x8ouLmW1hsZaX0B3OWrSjobheMyj3ldLvUwzJQxEXtpjQts8NBpleP2Hgi3-VE5Nm6OTK4jBIdUf4gOVSWd7X4TlHsI-chXOfrHEBR9ExHlTqApoK0zUtw/s320/lsg_col036.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This old Lemon-scented Gum was <br />twisted into unusual shapes and was<br />a fine tree, though it did drop bark in<br />summer and plenty of inflammable leaves</td></tr>
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I planted three seedlings of this tree at my present property in Balingup and they have grown very well in three to four years.<br />
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Now I realise they will only grow much bigger and have the potential with their bark and leaf fall in summer to add to the fuel hazard around the garden. I don't have the time to spend raking and mowing the leaves to stop them building up, so we had to make a decision as to whether to have a continuing maintenance problem or take them out whilst we still can.<br />
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To have a professional tree feller come and remove the trees when they have grown more can cost thousands of dollars, so the decision is to take them out.<br />
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With new rules being applied in some Shires about a 20 m Circle of Safety or the Building Protection Zone that should apply around houses and sheds, it makes sense to act earlier rather than later and reduce the fire hazard on our properties by removing these trees.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioKIlezXmajmLq-kHRrwER4KDtfY0aB06oEtajdIGj-X9PH-mOwGuJeWWgUyx2taSP1PKTZcZ-KNMa1oA2sPrsBmtZj6YKue2Q56KYtQ-aaNOKnu0EiYx3aGF9FKci_YuV2G2-KOWXe1M/s1600/Montaza_lsg_west.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioKIlezXmajmLq-kHRrwER4KDtfY0aB06oEtajdIGj-X9PH-mOwGuJeWWgUyx2taSP1PKTZcZ-KNMa1oA2sPrsBmtZj6YKue2Q56KYtQ-aaNOKnu0EiYx3aGF9FKci_YuV2G2-KOWXe1M/s320/Montaza_lsg_west.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(1) The lemon-scented gum has branches<br />removed first and then the bare trunk will<br />be cut down with a chain saw.</td></tr>
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The essential feature of these zones is to remove inflammable material from these areas from the ground and to keep trees that are near the house or sheds at least 10 m apart. The 10 m being from the outside of the canopy to the next. Trees with volatile oils in their leaves need to be carefully placed, trimmed back or removed altogether for improved safety. Trees if kept are to be pruned up at least to 2 m.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheN5YoYmvq7J3x0oi5DfvByCI7HHV_p7z5qUBK6wHuUa10CzxvTG-2v-9ESMzuR4cb6fSP11sDry-MEyg_1CHhTeTaZLJM2LOkkZF8uwMHJqnoJNsBAKYe8a2c9hN2jBZ5wWC4IyVtDCk/s1600/Montaza_lsg_topped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheN5YoYmvq7J3x0oi5DfvByCI7HHV_p7z5qUBK6wHuUa10CzxvTG-2v-9ESMzuR4cb6fSP11sDry-MEyg_1CHhTeTaZLJM2LOkkZF8uwMHJqnoJNsBAKYe8a2c9hN2jBZ5wWC4IyVtDCk/s320/Montaza_lsg_topped.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(2) The Gum tree has had the last of the<br />branches removed ready for the chain saw.<br />The tree on the left is an English Elm which<br />is deciduous and on the right is a poplar<br />which tends to dampen down fires though<br />they will get scorched.</td></tr>
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There is still debate about the role of deciduous trees which may provide a screening effect and if kept moist and without dead material held in their branches can take the heat out of a fire.<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11178525809903400265noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5697209011591186599.post-74363230943246938112012-03-20T02:47:00.000-07:002012-03-20T02:47:45.024-07:00Autumn is really coming?Perhaps the season is really changing and the cooler weather is beginning. Already the days are noticeably shorter. Well, so they should be as the equinox is just about upon us.<br />
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Any rain will be gratefully received, not only to freshen up the gardens and the forests, but also to reduce the risk of wildfire. Last week, near Balingup, we experienced a bushfire emanating from a nearby plantation, that took three days to control. Friends, not far from the fire, decided to move out whilst the heat was on.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZgOeTRBLOPurue7UpEEM3wKpQCrHjng5rQVld5CuXX9dZZ0kivd183wgGcCaOPg3vOmwW01kfr47JqoHpBlUU6DkUng9j74Y-YWX2519NyF9xtQIjRTcEXBNKw_ZmIB1nq4SVYIm-QKw/s1600/DSCF0030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZgOeTRBLOPurue7UpEEM3wKpQCrHjng5rQVld5CuXX9dZZ0kivd183wgGcCaOPg3vOmwW01kfr47JqoHpBlUU6DkUng9j74Y-YWX2519NyF9xtQIjRTcEXBNKw_ZmIB1nq4SVYIm-QKw/s400/DSCF0030.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eucalypts on the front verge can be a mixed blessing. In this case this is<br />litter from remnant forest trees, Eucalyptus patens, Blackbutt, which over<br />summer routinely drop masses of leaves, twigs and bark that build up <br />against the front fence. The mix contains volatile oils, is very dry and is <br />designed to burn. Regular mowing and/or raking to remove the litter <br />is needed to reduce the fuel load.</td></tr>
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The good aspect about the friendlier weather is that it is considerably more comfortable to be out in the garden. There's plenty to do from a risk management point of view when it comes to reducing fire risks. Even this morning I found a patch of dry grass in one section of the garden which I had overlooked all summer - just the place for an ember to fall and catch the grass and some well-placed dry eucalyptus leaves.<br />
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Time to make use of the gardener's friends: rakes and secateurs to tidy up and reduce the build up of fuel.<br />
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The garden will look more presentable, too!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11178525809903400265noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5697209011591186599.post-71096994885827825872012-03-19T02:43:00.001-07:002012-03-19T02:43:44.148-07:00<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 18px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #e06666;">Firewise Landscapes</span></span></span><br />
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In the South West of Australia we have a mediterranean climate, i.e. hot, dry summers that seem to last for at least five months and cool, wet winters. The winters have, in the past few years, been notable for their lower than average rainfall.<br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-right: 1em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 4px; padding-right: 4px; padding-top: 4px; position: relative; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5rt0jQvQoEHBZ_lJ5e0ooSoz6p2fXkarbY6yAf-9g5YHcSI5jaAgv3fKZ1x3kKUs6ZdDxUCBrlbkbvCJvEoqJf5NnScBBnloV7NJTUeR7hKl2n2S0TbWEdwGpqggbvtn90KDST5zItIfI/s1600/IMG_0182.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; color: #993333; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration: none;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5rt0jQvQoEHBZ_lJ5e0ooSoz6p2fXkarbY6yAf-9g5YHcSI5jaAgv3fKZ1x3kKUs6ZdDxUCBrlbkbvCJvEoqJf5NnScBBnloV7NJTUeR7hKl2n2S0TbWEdwGpqggbvtn90KDST5zItIfI/s320/IMG_0182.jpg" style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-left-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-top-style: none; border-width: initial; position: relative;" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12px; text-align: center;">The Red-flowering Gum, Corymbia ficifolia,<br />comes from the south coast of Western<br />Australia and is quite at home in California<br />or other places with a similar climate.<br />It has volatile oils in its leaves, drops copious<br />leaves and small twigs over summer and is<br />thus highly inflammable. It needs to be<br />planted well away from the home and well<br />maintained so that dry litter does not built<br />up to become ground fuels for a bushfire.</td></tr>
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We share this climate with just a few places in the world, namely southern California, the Cape Province of South Africa, parts of Chile and the countries surrounding the Mediterranean Sea. The plants that are native to these regions will in many instances grow happily in any other mediterranean-climate country. The trees and shrubs of these countries have adapted to surviving the long summers by a variety of methods, including making use of fire to regenerate trees and shrubs and to spread seed.<br /><br />In our garden design and in choosing plants we need to be mindful of whether we are at risk of destructive wildfire, both with respect to what sort of plants are in our gardens, where they are located and our proximity to forests and scrublands.<br /><br />There are many factors which will influence whether we are well prepared to survive a bushfire.<br /><br />In this blog we will discuss and try to inform the debate about how to make our properties and the surrounding landscape more firewise and less dangerous.<div style="clear: both;">
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